2006年3月30日 星期四

Nui Por Shan, Turret Hill, West Buffalo Hill 女婆山+石芽山+黃牛石城

Intermittent sunshine BF0-6 22oC
拿著一大堆新舊地圖,過大水坑沿梅子林路找登山小徑。因各人地圖版本有異,部份顯示有兩條山路,而事實上找到的只有一條。另外,車路的彎度也有出入,所以待確認後才正式登山。穿過一小段林徑,換上長草坡,坡上有不少非法採藥留下的小徑,不多久便來到山火後重新植樹的山嶺。初時太陽還在蒙頭大睡,當我們離開女婆山的三角測量墩以後,它便"起床"了。由於手上有數張6-7年前的1:5000大圖,當然不會錯過校對地圖,特別是小徑,因變化出入最大,結果當然行進較慢。發現女婆山跟城門河之間山坡上小徑跟1:5000圖出入不少,可能03年版的郊遊圖只顯示主徑及較新,出入較小。面向女婆坳一方近頂有石林,其中有兩塊一上一下的巨巖,每塊少說也有一部七人車大,下方那塊面前有一石筆,雖名陽元石,可是個人覺得它似埃及金字塔前的尖形柱碑[obelisk],只是短很多罷了。巨巖像是大型墓穴入口,由柱碑守護著,若你說出正確密碼,巨巖便會移開,露出入口了...。
越過女婆坳的十字路口一帶的小樹林,續登石芽山。從登山方向觀看,它分別有三列明顯山支脈延伸出來。我們走中間那條,右坡是山火後新出的短草,左方為深坳,密林遍佈。曾經自大水坑引水道遙望石芽山主峰,它看來像坦克車的炮塔,這大概是它的英文名Turret Hill的來源吧。然而其中文名的起源呢,或許是主峰以外的山嶺都跟狗牙嶺一樣,峻峭參差。而我們就是走那尖齒般的山嶺,跨過一個又一個山峰,朝水牛山去。今天風勢一直清勁,尤其是這段時間,要弓身走才成,更不用說閱圖了,每次也不能好好地看。風雖那麼強,卻似只是把污染物吹過來,令一切遠景也朦朦朧朧。那時每當我們走在長草間時,地面升起十分悶熱的暖風,但上半身卻抵受著勁風吹襲,感覺怪怪的。水牛山跟黃牛山都有不少大石散佈,而後者東及南坡石群較多。雖名為甚麼石城,形狀不算太特別,但於此下瞰麥徑上遊人,卻很有優越感。過後沿脊朝西北方下山,當中不少為階梯,部份更為石磴道。經種花場下大輋,再沿車路出大老山隧道收費亭。

2006年3月26日 星期日

Tai Shing Stream+Wong Mo Boulder Fields 大城石澗+王母石林

Foggy w/showers BF0-2 21oC photos 相簿
有見於數天來也下雨的關係,不敢隨便找同伴 ... 另外有見於剛過了旱季,即使近來的春雨並不致於做成山洪,因此如期 出發。沿虎蹤徑上走,本來找到了下杜鵑潭的路口,卻以為不是,只下了一點便折回。結果下了一條龍/王母瀑,其時大霧時隱 時現,澗中每顆石也十分濕滑。大家小心行進,先後經過大大小小潭瀑。抵楓葉潭/石荔潭時剛好滿潭落葉,可惜那些都不是楓 葉。往上去有數疊矮瀑,間中有一兩個中型的,水量都不錯。抵澗道與相思林徑的交匯點時,離澗朝大帽山去,出林後霧景益 增明顯。於松林徑的路交處登山咀,不久取出上月剛於比賽中用過的野外定向圖,重溫當天部份路段。話雖如此,今次主要目 的是要賞玩圖中漫山遍野的石林。可是,大"霧"山真的名不虛傳,濃霧加上驟雨,令此行跟比賽那天的天氣成為一個強烈的對 比。有見天氣這樣差,結果較多沿小徑走,沒有深入部份石林。拍照一事簡直最慘,照相機本身已經低解像度了,霧中的效果 只有越加朦朧。初時經石巢石林邊沿,卻遇上全程最大的驟雨。上禾秧山頂的小徑被茂密的矮竹包圍,弄得我褲管濕透。山上 有一片大石群,包括跟功夫人石相似的石堆,它看上去像作拉弓狀,某角度看則似個算術的除號。繼後往妙高台的瞭望站,屋 內沒人,但見一張碌架床,三個飯煲,有電視及雪櫃,真的麻雀雖小,五臟俱全。那兒風勢強勁,而霧仍沒給吹散。小屋對下 分佈著數塊扁平巨岩,但我們還是未找那塊叫妙高台的大石,印象中某次比賽時有見過的。時候不早了,待會還要穿過響石墳 場,惟有放棄尋找。幸而越過墳場時霧轉薄了,否則時近清明,又時值黃昏,加上不時遠處三數烏鴉振翅高飛...那便太有氣氛 了罷!走一段車路,經龍門郊遊徑入口,下引水道,亭旁下山至圓玄學院。經村徑抵馬閃排路出市中心...於這段本來最安全的 路上,我卻在下斜時踏中一塊黑膠墊,滑了一交。滿以為只是擦損了手指,數日後才發現還拉傷了腿。唉,之後數星期也只能 走些輕鬆路線。(註:可怕的是那次傷患, 如今多年後竟成反覆舊患)

2006年3月19日 星期日

Castle Peak Basin 青山腹地

Hazy (am). Sunny periods (pm). BF0-5 23oC photos 相簿
Thought it would be a foggy trip with drizzles, yet it turned out to be hazy and gusty. Our first stop was the thousand years old monastery located near the foot of the Castle Peak. A stone which looked like a section of a spine, was preserved in a glass cube. Beneath several huge boulders, there lay the ancient plaque and an altar. The writings on the plaque claimed Castle Peak to be the best high mountain in the area. Thousands of steps led us to the summit where the well-known pavilion [韓陵片石亭] stood. It was there when I first came across the gust that day. From then on, it kept blowing hard on us while we're at the valley of the Mong Hau Stream. Its estuary has now been turned into a landfill site. The trail along the stream as marked on the map was lost in real world. In this area, the best way to choose a route is to do it on-site, not much planning could be done in advance. Exploring this area will give you the excitement as when you're practising orienteering, only the land of Middle-Earth in the Lord of the Ring can compare. If you happen to get lost, there'll be no Ents to bring you out of the "forest", because there's no forest at all. Only rough and barren terrains are in view, with thick vegetation down those valleys with running streams.
Climbing up the ridge on the other side, we struggled against the gust, heading west and then descending to the fallow field in the basin. A track cut across the meadow from east to west disappeared somewhere in the distance. Instead, we had traversed the place in another direction so as to reach the spur in the north. A sandy trench cutting deep into the meadow was well-hidden by tall grasses. Fighting our way through the thickets, we were able to reach another section of the same stream again at the other side of the knoll. Once again, we had to traverse another knoll so as to reach the famous Bread Loaf Rock[方包石 HE022795] we'd been looking for. In fact, we might also have reached it just by walking along the stream, it's only the matter of route choice. The Bread Loaf Rock was a giant boulder with severe disintegration occurred along its 3 vertical fault lines, making it looked like a loaf of cut bread. Next, we clambered up the ridge by its side after a short break. To our surprise, there was a huge erosion gully not far from the stream. It looked somewhat like the Crescent Gully [月牙谷], but of a straighter shape. By then, the wind had dropped quite a lot, ascending the slippery slopes became an ordeal in the desert-like area. Scenes of the harsh and rugged landscapes in the Ring came to my mind ... were we trodding the perilous path to Mordor? Would the winged Nazgul (messengers of Dark Lord Sauron) be sweeping across the sky at any moment? Which one of us was the Ringbearer? ... Only the chimneys of the power plant (the Two Towers) were in sight, sticking out through the mist. Time was running out, we decided to cancel the visit to Crescent Gully, and headed for Pak Long [北朗] at Lung Kwu Tan [龍鼓灘]. While trudging on another ridge for the river junction near Bread Loaf Rock, a deep gully with pink soil appeared just beside our path. Walls of thin mounds pointed their edges towards the heaven, with pines scattering at different corners of the gully. The earth around the gully had cracks that were ready to extend, it would surely be a sheer drop if someone happened to be on that section when the earth broke apart. Back at the stream, we had a rigorous discussion on which path to choose. In the end, we clambered up a knoll for a trail meandering through the valley. Crossing the stream 2-3 times, and moving forwards in forest most of the time, the last challenge was to cross a wide ford with steep banks like that of a trench. Actually, almost half of this trail was paved with stones. In the past, it should probably be a frequently trodden trail linking the deserted Fa Heung Lo Village [花香爐廢村] to Lung Kwu Tan. Further off, a wooden plank formed the last bridge of the trek, leading us out to the fields of Pak Long.

2006年3月10日 星期五

Sheung Shui Wai, She Shan ... 上水圍,林村,社山,蓮澳

Hazy at first. Sunny afterwards. BF1 24oC
先到碗窯樊仙宮,宮後右方台 階引領到古石磨坑遺址。接回衛徑往蓮澳,於村後過橋,路燈引至林中廢屋,其後小徑轉右,因那不是正確方向,於是退回過 橋前位置再沿小溪走。但初時卻只顧觀賞左方清溪,而錯過右方登山小徑。雖不一會便醒覺,惟見水泥徑完好,便試著走,看 看會走到何處。直至小徑隱沒才試圖在附近折入丘上不明顯小徑。只是覺得它並非所有人合走,於是沿溪走回頭,終於找到原 來要走的路。其時天色仍灰濛濛的,擔心會下雨粉。溪旁小徑及廢屋徑均沒在地圖上顯示,其他亦有多處出入。走綑繞山腰的 泥徑至坳位遇分支,選了石磴古道沿窩位下山往上田寮下村。
社山神木乃一巨型樟樹,分成二主幹,其中一幹有兩個被燒通的大焦洞。訪客可沿公廁旁登上木板步道,從高處繞樹走一圈細 看。近公廁一段地上為綠色,並有指示。我們則由一隻在村內遇到的金毛尋回犬帶路,牠每走至轉角處便回頭看看我們;神色 並不似害怕我們,反而似是查看我們是否能跟上,一直至看到神木牠才悄悄走開。林村許願樹的第二代位於林錦公路旁,它自 上次斷枝後,現在仍非枝葉繁茂,給人半禿的感覺。希望它能支持下來,再現生機。樹旁空地上有數列許願板供掛上祈福物品 ,跟日本所見的類似,惟願人們能習慣改以此方式祈福吧。要是因祈福而弄毀樹木,那才不吉利。天后廟旁有一堵新淨白牆, 實為公廁與垃圾站外牆。繞經AYP營地,過林村河沿車路上山,初段的雜草剛被清除,直至一塌泥位止。其後車路再蜿蜒上升, 越走越爛,陸續有多處塌泥。自離開社山時,天色已逐漸轉晴,此時更陽光普照,令人大汗淋漓,惟幸不時有樹蔭。將由車路 轉入小徑前,左方有季節性小溪。而抵觀景台之前有兩處設有路牌的支路,為手上[03年以前版本]地形圖所沒有的。於台邊涼 亭午休後下大隴,在晨運客園地遇巡警,已曾數次在此一帶遇巡警們了,反而在獅子山並未遇過。出林不久,離通往營盤支路 不遠處的山咀上有涼亭。在小丘上尋得幾乎被草掩沒的小徑,下通假日農場附近車路,於農場側開始下走村徑。大隴跟之前的 田寮下也有不少沒廢置的耕地,長著各式農作物。村裡有很多狗,可幸都不是遊蕩的,一些更搖著尾巴,有一隻甚至向我們"請 請"。丙崗及雞嶺對岸皆有多座新建屋苑。穿越市區屋宇至上水圍參觀60年一次的太平清醮,圍內數條鄉村皆張燈結綵,粉飾一 番,四處可見大型花牌,氣氛熱鬧。醮場內巨型花牌更是多不勝數,一些穿上金色長衫,帶著金牌與卜帽的男丁在上香,而大 戲棚內正上演粵劇。看過展覽的舊照後,多待一會才有舞獅與麒麟。它們先到力士棚那邊及神壇處叩拜,然後回原地表演一番 。黃昏時份燈綵效果更明顯,來訪者亦漸多。

2006年3月2日 星期四

Ling Fung+Man Cheung 9 Bends +Sandstone 凌風石澗+萬丈九曲+紅粉石

八時許乘坐駛經麻埔坪監獄的巴士於 靈隱寺車路口下車,過二亭後於消防水龍頭下澗。左行一會即見崖壁上禪界佛語的古石刻,再前行少段便需折入右方支流,其 時該支澗水位很低。途經兩石砌小壩,一直走至引水道也無甚特別。臨出引水道前有一崖瀑,其左為一以碎石鋪面的大幅泥坡 。那些石塊比天然石河更為鬆動不穩,上攀頗為費勁;同伴則攀瀑而上。中游水位略高一點,翠月潭雖帶綠水,卻沒期待中那 樣美。期間偶有一些攀爬位。抵鳳徑的小石樁之前,乃一獨特的頁岩瀑布〔頁岩飛絮〕,層層紋理像一厚厚書本。上游也有些 中小型潭瀑,形態一般,而水質尚算清澈。將抵林中分岔徑前有小瀑,我試攀右方一層層的泥坡。因每層之平面位頗窄又沒可 靠手位,我要用mantel法上攀。抵坡頂後,左方有小橋接剛才提過頗茂密的支徑。右方支徑為泥路,兩徑皆沒顯示在地圖上。 選走左面的水泥徑,末段再折左接另一開揚水泥徑,依徑往南經營地往金字塔峰下鼻涕瀑午休。走凌風石澗用了約90分鐘,因 沒浸水開爐,只匆匆而過。
有些人說鼻涕瀑之潭下為萬丈布(Skyhigh Falls),另一些則說應該是它的北支。無論如何,該長瀑分數層,自頂下望可見屬於 水澇漕(Rumbling Stream)的小水塘,水潭及遠眺二澳黃泥色海灣。整天都不怎麼有風,可那裡的谷風卻是行程中最強。為免吃 乾糧時冷病,便躲在大石後背海面瀑而坐。用膳後於右方上行接走萬丈九曲,剛才下走往鼻涕瀑時,已遙見該澗其中數瀑於山 咀交錯的峽谷中的氣勢,因此決定加訪此澗。此澗景緻把凌風比下去,它不單水量較多,在下午陽光映照下,晶瀅溪水流淌於 曲折的山谷中,充滿大自然氣息。首先映入眼簾的是上下二瀑的綠水碧潭,其後溪流於削壁廊內左彎右拐,緩緩攀升。由於人 少,能細享此澗的寧靜幽美。過三疊瀑後澗道漸收窄,正以為再沒潭瀑,怎料一中型瀑卻又突然出現。自此澗道再一次回覆狹 窄,將抵群峰環繞的廢田前有小分支,可折左沿山咀上小徑登丘頂。此澗除了小部份攀爬外,山徑部份也頗多,令行進速度增 快,耗時不多。站在平坦山丘上,可遙見前方山谷另一面的慈慶寺。選走左徑,經之前下萬丈布的小橋,營地旁及凌風離澗位 ,沿鳳徑下山朝大澳跑去,亦途經早前到過的中游出口。一群長者在小橋上開爐,我全沒料到有此一著,收掣不及,結果要跳 過一隻在爐火上的有蓋鐵鑊,大家都抹一把汗。
大澳廢鹽田外的天秤已移走,多了一列涼亭及欄桿。穿過市中心後,不久便見重建後的棚屋,時而路經寫著太平車的綠色箱, 原來內藏滅火筒。忙著觀看棚屋的內部,錯過了通往新基橋的小巷,直走至寶珠潭前,看見楊侯廟才醒覺。回頭過橋往東澳古 道走,水已退了不少,但見紅石不多,於是走至鐵德樹一帶才下旱澗至海邊。澗內枝藤密佈,十分纏身。沿岸紅石陸續增多, 初時較多蜂巢孔,卻不怎樣紅。後見山坡有一洞,內有黑鳥受驚飛出。一路前行,紅石漸多,花紋與色彩混合得絕美,像一塊 塊的調色板。部份則形肖一塊滿佈白色補釘的橙紅布,連縫補釘的針線紋也有。另一些又似嵌了珠貝的銅片,真要慨嘆造物神 奇。若硬要跟紅石門一帶的相比,則各有特色,此地紅石範圍略遜,但花紋則絕對有其吸引處。此時水退已甚,亦幸如此,才 可較易越過近茜草灣的紅石崖。那些崖的色彩最美,但因陡直,危險度也最高。崖坡如手指垂插下海,人們需在指縫間遊走。 適逢水退露出一個位於兩石咀間的小洞,過此洞不久便抵茜草灣的村屋,再前行一會即抵深屈村。此時五時剛過,同伴因事先 行跑回東涌。我則間中奔跑,終能趕及天黑前抵達市區。這次不知是否跑得較快,把背囊中的荳奶搖動得太多,最後竟變成稀 液。當中有數個棉花糖狀的東西[可能是凝乳curd],口感卻比棉花糖軟,它的製造原理跟酥油茶類似吧。